Fashion month is all gone by now, so we have finally reached that difficult moment that we are all very familiar with – closet cleaning. Ok, I know that we are touching a very sensible point right here, but sure you also understand that in order to allow good and new things come to your life, you have to create space and give another purpose to your old aka out-of-trend pieces. Just a little tip: don’t go over board with this detox ritual and remember that, in doubt, you better keep the pieces. Fashion is an ongoing (never ending, actually) recycling process, so you can take a lot more from your previous (maybe a a decade ago) investments.
I am aware that in nowadays, Fashion Month turns out to be almost an entire trimester. Yes, you’ve just read it perfectly, a trimester. Not kidding at all! From Copenhagen Fashion Week in January to Shanghai Fashion Week in late March, we have plenty to cover and a lot to take inspiration from. When it comes to the South Korea and China, I am still processing what I have seen and because it is my first year observing and taking some serious notes, I think I should focus myself on what I truly believe in and am acquainted with – besides, and although it is immensely exciting to see the huge talent that lives in Seoul and Shanghai, it is also utterly frustrating to recognize that most of them don’t see the European market as interesting as we think we are. However, and because I am quite excited with this article (this was a clear euphemism, because I am on fire), I am going to dive right in into the matter.
The AW18 shows were highly characterized by a western feeling as seen on Isabel Marant, Calvin Klein and Chloé, a continuous love for sequins as seen on Ulla Johnson, Paco Rabanne and Elie Saab, an increase of layers (up to 9 is possible) as seen on Balenciaga, Marc Jacobs and Marine Serre, a richer primary colour palette as seen on Jacquemus,Tibi and Shrimps, a Clue come back as seen on Dior, Versace and Sara Battaglia, a pastels-gone-electro-neon trend seen on Prada, Balmain and Maison Margiela, and last but not least, the Logo craziness as seen on Fendi, Gucci and Iceberg.The list goes on and I could fill the entire article with more than 26 key-trends (yep, I counted them), but that would be boring (or don’t) so let’s keep with 10 because it is such a round a cute number. Plus, I consider that up to 10 pieces for next Winter’s shopping list can be seen as I a very wise decision and (financially speaking) quite nice for your pocket and credit card.
So, here you have the ten. (Not by Virgil, sorry).
Copenhagen Fashion Week
This oversized denim and faux fur jacket was spotted on Gigi Hadid. It looks so cozy and yet so street orientated that you will want it styled with your denim jeans or track pants. Your choice. Collection: https://www.holzweiler.no/product/mastodone-jacket-blue-blocked
You can be sure that mustard yellow is going to stand still in terms of hue to go. Of course, it was presented to us as a Generation-Z colour, but lets ignore the fact that we are already a little bit beyond that age group – who cares anyway, right? Yellow is a chameleon colour and it is going to stick with us all winter long. These subtly pleated flares are as incredibly fluid and genially designed as it looks on the runway, so you better run for them if you want to make your winter a little bit brighter and fun.
New York Fashion Week
3. Calvin Klein
Calvin Klein has been proven to me (and to the World, frankly) that is more than a lingerie and perfume label. CK has been taking New York fashion week by storm since it’s last SS18 and I could not be happier because I have been cheering Raf since he left Dior back in 2015. For the upcoming AW18, Raf took us to what he considers the “American Heroes”, allowing us to connect with his vision of the” all-American wardrobe”. From heavy-soled rubber boots, balaclavas and his traditional pieces (western shirt and lumberjack plaids), I went crazy about his hi-vis orange and yellow jackets banded in silver. This one is my absolute favourite.
4. Acne Studios
Denim is denim and it does not need quite an introduction, therefore, I am going to be very succinct about the following piece – it’s a pair of jeans, just that. Well, I lied. I mean, they are the straight plaited ankle-length jeans that we all have been praying for. Besides the cool granny socks and the practical shoe-tie used as a belt (pretty much seen all over the skater community), these jeans are definitely a solid investment to make your wardrobe pop.
London Fashion Week
Natasha is a London based designer but her roots trace back to Ukraine. For her AW18 vision, she decided to focus herself on a corporate wardrobe and turn it into power dressing for women that have a full life and need to convey work with a typical Friday night. I am insanely in love with her millennial-pink (not out of the game just yet) patent leather thigh-highs boots because they are incredibly bubbly and feminine, but still capable of exuding a truthful sexiness and practicality. These are the ones that you should swipe your card for.
AW17 and SS18 were the days to wear mini and PVC transparent handbags (from Staud to Chanel), but the AW18 is going to surprise us in terms of size. Victoria Beckham presented a classy and richer reinterpretation of the typical IKEA bag and has transformed it into a vivacious extra large shopping bag, giving a lot of credit to our beloved colour of the year, violet.
Milan Fashion Week
Venturing Fendi defined the entire collection as “a romantic uniform for a strong and powerful woman of today” and from the street aka sporty logo Fendi sweatshirt (which the lettering was borrowed from FILA) to the double-F beige-brown logo patterns, there was a lighter and younger approach to Fendi’s design. I really have to select the sweatshirt that Kaia has worn with a grown-up-work-ready attitude.
Sara has been inspiring me from the handbag point of view to her way of conceiving ready-to-wear for women. It an absolute truth that I once started to followed her thanks to her sister Giovanna, most known as Bat Gio , however, she has conquered my heart when she first presented her colourful pleated bucket bags. In Milan she presented a collection that included full suits sharply tailored (styled with Dr. Martens) and patent belted trench coats, but it was a Gossip Girl kind of reminder that really made my day. The entire look is superb – mostly because of it’s yellow crepe lady look aka cape aka blazer, but I must go with the plaid high waist shorts. It really calls for Serena van der Woodsen.
Paris Fashion Week
9. Isabel Marant
Classic Western suffered a modern interpretation by Isabel, proving that Cowboy vibes are a huge thing for the upcoming AW18 and besides Chloe, CK and Etro, Marant came in with a strong sense of a feminine take on Texas by pulling off a lot of fringes, denim shirts and blanket coats (a AW18 hit as well) and a lot of American-West-type of ankle boots. This style is a sure thing thanks to it’s win-win situation, since you have the long fringes and the typical cowboy shaped boot. HIIHÁÁ!.
10. Miu Miu
So, cheers to the 60’s (also spotted at Dior) and to the 80’s because you can be completely certain that you are about to hijack your mom’s closet in about 5 seconds – just bare with me. Think big, messy and Amy Winehouse hair, think second-skin pencil skirts and itsy-bitsy handbags (…) you are going to, positively, reminiscence about one or two pictures of you mother back in the days. During this entire Fashion Weeks, Miuccia Prada used Miu Miu to really reflect the best of that decade and no other designer brand comes across to me when the keywords are maxi double-belts. You simply have to have them. Bottom line, you have to wear them.
All the love,
Sara King Moura